The video link shows a 6 stitch braid but shows how to do a 4 stitch cable cross left and right. The place stitch 1 on peg 3 and stitch 2 onto peg 4, EW the 2 stitches. Moves stitch 3 to peg 1 and stitch 4 to peg 2. Lift stitches 1 and 2 place them onto stitch holders in that order. Then from stitch hold place stitch 4 onto peg 2 and stitch 3 onto peg 1. Place stitch 2 onto peg 4, and stitch 1 onto peg 3. Skip pegs 1 and 2, EW pegs 3 and 4, place stitch 3 then stitch 4 onto stitch holder. You will at this point need a stitch holder to hold your stitches while you work on crossing them. The double peg wrap may not be needed depending on your gauge. Here is a video link.Īt this point you will need to know the techniques and gauges for the 4 stitch cable cross. There are also other ways of doing a 2 peg cable cross over 3 pegs. How it is generally written and the rows usually done before the cable crossing. Then knit stitch 1 that was just placed on peg 2 and tighten the stitches. Move stitch 2 to peg 1 and place stitch 1 on peg 2. Lift stitch 1 and hold to center of the loom, take working yarn and knit stitch 2. Knit what was stitch one on peg 2 and this completes the cross. Move stitch 1 to peg 2, and place stitch 2 on peg one. Skip peg 1 and knit peg 2, take stitch 2 off peg and hold to cent of loom. There is the 2 stitch cable cross, the only one that works with all gauges, and most yarns, and is your easiest to keep up with, no extra techniques or equipment needed a lot of times. So lets go through some basic cables and how these are done. This note might help if you run into someone working a pattern in a direction you do not. You will see in the instructions that you will simple flip the process to when working from either direction and doing your left cable cross or right cable cross. Some designers on even the tension and I have noticed the cable doesn't look crisp and even.Īlso when working from Left to Right or Right to Left the cable will change. This makes for crossing stitches easier and also makes the cable look cleaner. Then once you reach the cable release the double wrapped pegs and even out the tension. It is wrapping half you cable stitch pegs twice on the previous round to a cable. This technique helps massively on 4 stitch and up cable crossings for the loom. After that a 6 to 8 you absolutely have to use the EW. Are there other designers who use true knit fort this yes, but usually only as many as a 4 stitch cross. This has been my personal experience, and has been what has worked best for me. Why EW? It is the largest of the stitches and has more capability of stretching to cross your stitches. I say you EW always, unless you are doing just a 2 stitch cross then that is fine to use U-Knit or True Knit. Between gauge and yarn these are very important in helping you to get your cables crossed. You need the stretch in order to cross your stitches easier. Many acrylic yarns and wool yarns have such give. Many of your more popular yarns like red heart super save has stretch to it. What this means is the yarn has stretch to it. I find bigger than 1/2" gauge the cable can look muddy and not as clean. Why? The closeness of the pegs matters, this makes it much easier to cross stitches to do the cables. Once you grasp these things you can start to work cables on many projects and find the intimidation goes away. The trick is knowing what gauges and what yarn and what stitches and techniques to use to create beautiful cables. I have gotten up to 8 stitch cable cross. Due to the pegs being stationary cables can be quite difficult to achieve particularly the more stitches you are crossing. While many times it is a crossing of stitches, the way and most definitely how you cross them is the challenge. Cables are dimensional and striking and with loom knitting can be difficult to keep up with at times.